Now it’s time to break out the abrasive wheels.
Some use sanding discs, some use wire discs. The challenge with these products is that they soon clog up as the coating heats up with the friction and starts to melt. This can turn an already difficult, dirty and time consuming job into a real chore.
The ideal solution is a high speed revolving “chipping” wheel that removes the coating with revolving tungsten teeth.
Innovative products are available that perform this task and the finish is nearly akin to bare-metalling the hull.
Remember, the key is in the preparation.
Now, if you’re really game, you can attack the base plate. Why not. Well because it’s hard, not normally quoted for in marina
menu pricing and because someone once said it wasn’t worth it.
If there’s an older boat out of the water, go and have a look at the base plate. There will be pitting as on the hull sides, it’s just that it’s not so noticeable. Oh, and it doesn’t really matter down there because a) the steels thicker, b) it’s dark,and c) it’ll get scraped off!
Just because the steel is thicker doesn’t mean it won’t corrode. It’s dark! and yes some will get scraped off, but hardly any in reality.
So hull sides at least fully prepared and you have a choice.
Now is a good time to have the anodes
replaced. Do not paint over the anodes
. In any case at this stage inspect all seams, base plate joins, propeller and shaft and any underwater grilles protecting mud boxes or bow tubes.
Rectify any issues such as evidence of cavitation or excessive corrosion.
Remove all debris from the prop and give it a clean & polish.